5 Questions with...
Toshiaki Kojima, SakeStory (4/4/11)
Toshiaki Kojima is the vice president of marketing at SakeStory, a sake and shochu importer that was founded in 2005. SakeStory is a family-owned company that represents 11 sake breweries and 4 shochu distilleries from 12 prefectures. Toshi-san is involved in everything from establishing and managing relationships with breweries and distilleries in Japan to marketing and sales here in the U.S.
Hi Toshi-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. Can you tell us about some of your
sakes that are available here in NY?
Sure,
I would be glad to.
Junmai
Daiginjo Kura "Master's Pride" (Kitsukura Brewery, Nagano)
The Kura is a very refined daiginjo, but with solid textures and a multi-layered
flavor profile. The subtle but beautiful sake aroma is followed by razor smooth,
slightly earthy, but yet dignified flavor. Fantastic when paired with fresh
seafood, raw bar, sushi and caviar.
Daiginjo
Yoi no Tsuki "Midnight Moon" (Tsukinowa Brewery, Iwate)
The
Yoi no Tsuki is brewed in the purest of the "Nanbu" sake making
tradition, by a rare but charismatic female brew master, Hiroko Yokozawa. This
beautiful daiginjo has a vibrant aroma with a bold but pleasant flavor of
melon-sweetness. Please enjoy the Yoi no Tsuki with fresh fish, sashimi, and
seafood salads.
Junmai
Ginjo Hakuyou "White Sun" (Ohya Chukichi Honten, Fukushima)
The
Hakuyou is made at a very small brewery in Shirakawa City, Fukushima, by a brew
master and two apprentices who happen to be brothers. This junmai ginjo has a
wonderful subtle but yet dignified aroma of refined rice, which then gradually
fades into flavors of deep earthy sweetness. Fantastic when paired with fresh
sashimi with ponzu sauce, or sushi.
Tokubetsu
Junmai Housui "Fragrant Water" (Housui Brewery, Tokushima)
The
Housui Tokubetsu Junmai has an irresistible aroma of a combination of sweetness
and tartness originating from the rice mash. This unique tokubetsu junmai offers
pleasantly soft flavors up front, with a hardy aftertaste coming from the
mineral rich waters used to brew this sake. Perfect when paired with charcoal
grilled fish or vegetables, as well as shrimp tempura.
Junmai
Komedake "Pure Grain" (Nakagawa Brewery, Tottori)
The
Komedake is a traditional old school junmai sake with a robust moromi aroma and
flavors of mild dryness with a hint of spicy sweetness. This junmai sake is
definitely full bodied, but the mouth feel and texture is extremely soft.
Wonderful when paired with grilled fish or lobster, tempura, and even crab
cakes.
2. How do you decide which sakes you'd
like to import?
My
goal has been (and will continue to be) to try and select products from some of
the smallest breweries I can get in touch with. I have a contact who is a
“koji mold” maker in Japan, and he was kind enough to introduce me to many
of the breweries we currently work with. There is something I truly appreciate
about our breweries being very small, extremely local, and truly family owned
(often times the president is also the brew master, and other family members are
the “kurabito”).
3. What are some of the restaurants
where we can find your sakes here in NY?
Some
of our products are offered at Sakagura Restaurant, Decibel, and Robataya.
4. Can you tell us about your favorite
sake cup?
Hahaha…please
see attached images. This is my personal ochoko, where the bottom of the sake
cup is in the shape of a cone (like a toy top that kids play with)…Yes, this
is a sake cup that no one is able to put back down on the table, once the sake
has been poured (otherwise, it will topple and spill)!! One just needs to keep
it in their hand and drink whatever is in the cup before they can put it back
down!!
5. What are your plans for the future?
Well,
I guess I would like to eventually get married and have a family!! …But in all
seriousness, I would like to get nihonshu (sake) to a point where the general
American consumer has no hesitation in stocking their own personal drinking
inventory at their homes. Consumers already do this with wine or beer, and I
strongly believe we are headed in the right direction with sake. Once sake has
been accepted into the general American consumers’ homes, I will be extremely
ecstatic and will celebrate using my personal ochoko!!
Naotaka Miyasaka, Miyasaka Brewing Company (3/24/11)
Naotaka Miyasaka is
the president of Miyasaka Brewing Company,
the maker of Masumi and Miyasaka
brand sake. Miyasaka Brewing Company is a family-run brewery that was founded in
Suwa, Nagano, Japan in 1662. Miyasaka-san oversees the company’s overall
business operations. He writes a monthly newsletter, makes frequent appearances
in Japan’s food and beverage media, and travels several times a year to
Masumi’s overseas markets, including the U.S.
Hi Miyasaka-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. Can you tell us
about your sakes that are available here in the U.S.?
We started out with only 1 or 2 sakes back in the 1980’s, but thanks to the
hard work of our importers and to the growing enthusiasm for sake in the U.S.,
that list has grown to the following nine labels under two brands:
Masumi
“Arabashiri” First Run (Junmai
Ginjo) – spring seasonal namazake
Lovely fragrant aroma, then clean, vivid taste and a graceful finish. This
spring release is young and playful, yet possesses surprising finesse.
Masumi
“Yumedono” Mansion of Dreams (Daiginjo)
Yumedono presents an array of flavor nuances that includes peach, melon and
strawberry. Rarely does one sake combine so many taste sensations in a single
cup…or finish so gloriously. This luscious sake can be savored by itself, or
served at any point in the meal. Unsurpassed as a special occasion show-stopper.
Masumi “Nanago”
Seventh Heaven (Junmai Daiginjo Yamahai)
This suave interpretation of the yamahai style is full of surprises, with a
bright shaft of sunny flavor that shoots straight out of the glass.
Masumi “Sanka” Mountain Flower (Junmai Daiginjo)
Fresh and fragrant, Sanka conjures images of an alpine meadow in spring. Notes
of peach & banana in the aroma, elegant and subtle with intriguing hints of
aniseed. Pair with fish, shellfish, salads, light pasta, green herbs.
Masumi “Karakuchi
Kiippon” Dry Original (Junmai Ginjo)
A subtle astringency and fragrance reminiscent of young Fuji apples produce a
distinctly masculine feel.
Masumi “Okuden
Kantsukuri” Mirror of Truth (Junmai)
Longtime sake-drinkers find this sake comfortingly familiar. It is smooth at
first sip, and displays a range of subtle, organic flavors as well as a pleasant
natural sweetness.
Masumi “Yamahai
Zukuri” Tanglewood (Junmai Ginjo
Yamahai)
Complex, deeply satisfying flavor, yet smooth and evenly balanced throughout,
this bold sake rewards those in search of a singular taste experience.
Miyasaka “Yamahai
50 Nama” Last Ride Home
Combines the vividness characteristic of nama (unpasteurized) sake with that
unique marriage of acidity and depth achievable only through the yamahai brewing
method. Pairs well with herbal salads, grilled fish, and even strong and spicy
dishes.
Miyasaka
“Yawaraka Junmai” Sake Matinee
Retains the character of a well-balanced Junmai at a softer 12% alcohol.
Fruit blend fragrance, light mouth-feel with rounded plum accents building from
cup to cup. A great lunchtime sake. Pair with fresh greens, salads w/citrus
accents, grilled shrimp and fish.
2. Can you tell us
about your brewery?
My family started brewing sake in Suwa, Nagano Prefecture, in 1662. The Suwa
basin is surrounded by the Japan Alps and the Yatsugatake Eight Peaks Range, so
we are blessed with plenty of clean water and cold winters. (Some might not find
cold winters a blessing, but it is a perfect environment for making premium
sake.) We began using the name “Masumi” for our sake at the end of the Edo
period (1603-1867). Masumi, which means transparency or truth, is the name of an
8th century bronze mirror kept at the Suwa Taisha Shinto shrine. My family had
provided the shrine with sake for centuries, so it was only fitting that our
sake took the name of the shrine’s “Mirror of Truth.” And I guess you
could say we had our “moment of truth” in the first decade of the 20th
Century, when my grandfather became head of the company while he was still quite
young. Masumi had been going through hard times, and he and his master brewer
decided the only way to survive was to buckle down and make the best sake they
possibly could. They visited famous breweries throughout Japan to learn new
techniques, which they applied with lots of hard work over many a winter’s
brewing season. By 1943 that hard work had gained us fame outside of Suwa, when
we won our first top prize at the National Sake Competition. Several more wins
followed, then in 1946 we got a huge boost up onto the national stage when the
National Brewing Association selected our house yeast to be its “Association
Yeast Number 7”. I’ll tell you more about that in my answer to your next
question. While I am proud of our record at competitions and the continuing
popularity of the number 7 yeast, I am proudest of the fact that we have kept on
working hard to make what my grandfather considered the ideal sake. He always
used to say “it’s easy to make sake with unusual flavors or strong aromas
that catch the customer’s interest momentarily. What’s hard is to make
well-balanced sake that quietly contributes to the overall enjoyment of a
meal—a sake you mostly notice because the bottle empties before you realize it
and leaves you wishing for more.”
3. Can you tell us
about the discovery of yeast #7 and its significance for the sake industry?
In 1946 Masumi had swept the top prizes in all three categories of the National
Competition. This brought us to the attention of the National Brewing
Association, which had a program aimed at finding superior yeast strains and
making them available to all sake makers. After the competition, their yeast
scientist, Dr. Shoichi Yamada, visited our brewery, and he confirmed that our
yeast had exceptional brewing properties. The yeast was not only a reliable
fermenter, but it also produced an abundance of the so-called “ginjo
aromas”, primarily fruit aromas like banana, melon, and pear. The yeast
received the official moniker “Association Yeast Number 7” simply because it
was the seventh yeast to have been selected under the National Brewing
Association’s program. Many more “Association Yeasts” have come out since
then, and while Number 7 is no longer considered to be a particularly aromatic
yeast, it remains the single most popular sake yeast in Japan, in use by over
60% of Japan’s brewers. You could say it has aged gracefully, becoming milder
and striking a better balance between flavor and aroma than in its brash youth.
4. Can you tell us
about your favorite sake cup?
My favorite cup is the lacquerware guinomi that is part of our
“My Guinomi”
set, which we developed for our Cella Masumi
shop in collaboration with
lacquerware artist Tezuka Manemon. Mr. Tezuka’s family has been making
traditional lacquerware in Nagano’s Kiso Valley for many generations, and you
can just
feel the high level of craftsmanship when you hold these perfectly
balanced, amazingly light pieces in your hand. I think the soft smoothness of
the lacquerware enhances the soft, smooth character of our sake. Also, you’ll
notice the My Guinomi set’s cloth bag holds two
nested lacquerware cups. I call it the “Choi waru set,” which means
“slightly naughty set,” because when you’re out drinking alone you can use
the extra cup to invite the pretty woman (or handsome man) across the bar to
share a drink with you!
5. What's happening
at the brewery this month and what are your plans for the future?
March is when we are winding things up for the year. By March’s end, both our
Suwa Kura and our Fujimi Kura will have held its “kakedome iwai” party. This
is a party we have after we have steamed the last batch of rice for the year.
Also, this year we plan to finish re-building our Cella Masumi brewery shop,
which was heavily damaged last summer when a truck smashed into it. The new
Cella Masumi should be completely open for business by the fall.
Junichi Yageta, Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery (2/26/11)
Junichi Yageta is in charge of overseas sales at Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery, located in Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan. Fukumitsuya was founded in 1625, and is one of the oldest sake breweries in Japan. Yageta-san frequently travels to promote the brewery's brands at sake tasting events around the world. He also writes a monthly newsletter.
Hi Yageta-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. Can you tell us about your sakes that are
available here in the U.S.?
Seven sakes of Kagatobi brand are available today. They are Junmai Daiginjo Sennichi-Kakoi (1000 days aged), Junmai Daiginjo Ai, Junmai Ginjo, Yamahai
Junmai Super Dry, Sparkling Junmai Nigori (less filtered sake), Muroka Nama
(Seasonal Draft Junmai), and Shiboritate (Seasonal Draft Junmai Daiginjo Ai). I
am sure you can enjoy each specific taste. Today let me explain about
"Junmai Daiginjo Ai" and "Sparkling Junmai Nigori". The
former is an elegant Junmai Daiginjo. Apple-like fruity aroma and smooth
texture. Best served cold in a wine glass. Goes well with light flavored dishes.
And the latter is just released in the U.S. and has less filtered, rich rice
flavor and refreshing taste. Pleasant fresh gas from fermented process and clean
aftertaste. I hope many people enjoy the wide variety of Kagatobi taste!
2. Can you tell us about Fukumitsuya?
Founded in 1625, Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery has the longest history in Kanazawa.
With natural mineral water, superior sake rice, and its traditional brewing
skills, the brewery continually pursues to bring the highest quality sakes ever
as “Junmai-Gura”, the brewery that makes only Junmai sakes. For further
information, please visit our website; www.fukumitsuya.co.jp/english and follow
us on Facebook.
3. What's happening at the brewery this month?
From the end of January to February our premium sake brand "Mizuho" is
brewed in the cold climate of Kanazawa. It is very carefully brewed using
traditional skills. It has a lot of snow and it is very cold in Kanazawa, so we
believe sake brewed in this year must be great. Moreover, there are three shops
in Tokyo area where we have many tasting events. Please visit us if you have
opportunity to visit Tokyo.
4. Can you tell us about your favorite sake cup?
My favorite is the "Daiginjo Glass" by Fukumitsuya (available in Fukumitsuya's stores and
website). I like to drink with this sake glass.
5. What are your plans for the future?
Two sakes, "Junmai Daiginjo Sennichi-Kakoi" and "Sparkling Junmai
Nigori", are just released in the U.S. this year. We would like to promote
these sakes. I hope more people enjoy them soon!
Hisashi Kobayashi, Musashino Shuzo
(2/10/11)
Kanpai NY Best of 2010:
Best Nigori Sake
Hisashi Kobayashi is the general manager of
Musashino Shuzo,
located in Niigata, Japan. Musashino is a family-owned sake
brewery that was founded in 1916. Kobayashi-san manages the day-to-day
activities of the brewery, and oversees everything from brewing to marketing/promotion. He also writes a blog about life at the brewery.
Hi Kobayashi-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1.
Can you tell us about your sakes that are available here in the U.S.?
We
have been selling three sakes in the U.S. since 2005. Nyukon Tokubetsu Honjozo
and Daku Nigori are available in NYC and other major markets, mainly at
restaurants and sake bars. Both of them go well with a variety of dishes. Try
Nyukon with nabe or nimono (simmered vegetable, seafood, etc) and you will never
be disappointed. Daku pairs well with lightly spicy dishes, teriyaki, and nabe.
Bunano Tsuyu “Dewdrops” Tokubetsu Junmai is available in limited quantities.
It has been developed in a joint project with a group of rice growers in Maki in
Niigata, a small village located just 30 minutes away from our brewery. They
grow top quality rice at their rice paddy terrace. They also have in their
village a legendary spring called “Koh-boh Shimizu”, which is a perfect
source of extremely pure and soft water. It is only natural for sake lovers like
them to start dreaming about making their own sake from their own rice and
water. No sooner than we were asked for help, the project started and the first
batch came out in 2001. Unfortunately, this sake is not available in NY right
now.
2.
Can you tell us about your brewery?
We
are located in Jyoetsu, Niigata. Hajime Kobayashi, my older brother and
president of Musashino Shuzo, and I are the 4th generation of the owner family.
Our great grandfather founded a couple of businesses including a shipping
company which shipped rice to local breweries, one of which he took over in
1916, and our family has been making sake for almost a century since then. “Brewing a sake that you never get tired of drinking (nomiaki shinai
osake)” has been the motto of our company. So our sake is not so dry, not
so sweet, and not so eccentric which means it is well-balanced.
3.
Can you tell us about the rice that you use for your sake?
We
only use rice which is grown in our region. We mainly use Gohyakumangoku and
Koshitanrei right now. Gohyakumangoku is good for brewing sake that has a clear
taste and calm aroma. When we want to brew sake which has a richer taste we use
Koshitanrei. Roughly translated, Koshitanrei is for a sake with a lower rice
polishing rate (lower than 60%), whereas Gohyakumangoku is typically used for a
sake with a higher rice polishing rate (higher than 60%). We also use local
famous Koshi Ibuki too. Our sake master Kenji Fujii is a farmer during the
summer season. He is always producing great Koshitanrei and Koshi Ibuki for our
Sake house.
4.
What's happening at the brewery this month?
January
and February are the busiest months for a Sake house. We started two tanks of
Daiginjo batches in January and 1 batch of Junmai Daiginjo in February. We plan
to finish the Daiginjo batches at least up to the end of this month. Also we
will have many guests who are coming from not only the local area, but also from
outside of Jyoetsu such as Tokyo. Some consider drinking our fresh brewed sake
at the guest house “Rakusui Tei” while looking at the snow-covered
traditional Japanese garden to be their great pleasure.
5.
What are your plans for the future?
We
plan to get much closer with each customer. We want to hear what the customer
feels when they taste our sake. We try to participate in tasting events and sake
dinners as much as possible. We have a traditional Japanese guest house “Rakusui Tei” beside our office building, which has a very traditional
Japanese garden. When you come to our Sake house you can enjoy the lovely view
of the Japanese garden and taste our great sakes. Having a chat with customers
at “Rakusui Tei” is one of the best ways to communicate with each
customer. We will soon launch Ten To Chi “Heaven and Earth” Junmai Daiginjo
in the U.S. This sake is brewed from Koshitanrei rice. We believe the sake will
be one of the QPR or top-value sakes in the category. It will be available in
NY, San Francisco, Chicago, Las Vegas, Miami, etc in April. We hope many
people will try it and enjoy it.
Rikako Kanehira, Aiyu Shuzo (1/11/11)
Kanpai NY Best of 2010:
Best Ginjo Sake, Best Nama Sake
Rikako Kanehira is the director of Aiyu Shuzo,
located in Ibaraki, Japan. Aiyu is a family-owned sake brewery that was founded
in 1804. Kanehira-san manages the day-to-day activities of the brewery, and she
assists her mother, Michiko Kanehira (7th generation president), in all aspects
of running the brewery.
Hi Kanehira-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. Can you tell us about your sakes that are
available here in the U.S.?
Tomoju Junmai Ginjo has a fruity aroma yet heavy
solid flavor. The aftertaste disappears so fast that you are wanting another
one. It's good with sashimi, sushi, and Japanese stews. It's an all-around sake.
Tomoshichi Junmai Nigori is a rare find in the U.S., because it's a dry and
clean tasting nigori. It goes well with spicy food. I also recommend it with chocolate
and other desserts. Aiyu Umeshu is made of Nihonshu so it has a sour new
taste. It was analyzed that healthy ingredients such as amino acid, citric acid,
and aspartic acid were found 6 times more than in traditional umeshu, and it is lower in
calories as well. This can be good for many occasions such as an aperitif or
with dessert.
2. Can you tell us about your brewery?
Aiyu Shuzo is located in Itako city. Itako city
is located in Ibaraki prefecture, but it is only a 30 minute drive on the
highway from Narita Airport (Chiba prefecture). Aiyu started in 1804. It is a
207-year-old brewery. Itako city is a part of Suigo Chitai (riverside
district), and very good rice is produced in the area. The first generation was
Tsuneshichi Kanehira, and we are the 7th generation today. In recent years, our
Daiginjo and Tomoju Junmai Ginjo have received awards at the Monde Selection, U.S.
National Sake Appraisal, Wine Challenge, Sake Challenge, Zenkkoku Shin Shu Kanpyo Kai,
and Kanto Shinetsu Kokuzeikyoku Sakerui Kanpyo Kai.
3. Which sake did you have
to celebrate the New Year?
Tarusake, which is a Nihonshu in Japanese cedar
barrels to add the flavor of the wood. I had it in a masu with salt on one of
the corners of the masu for the New Year. Doburoku, which is a Nihonshu in a
bottle with still active and fermenting moromi. Pieces of rice are still there,
and it has a very thick texture. Because it is still fermenting, you can taste
the soda-like bubbles and the taste changes every day. It tastes sweet and sour
in the beginning, but the sweetness decreases as days go by, and acidity and
alcohol increases. It's a fun drink to experience these changes.
4. What's happening at the brewery this month?
Itako is close to Narita Shinshouji (temple) and
Kashima Jingu (shrine). In fact, we make Omiki (sacred sake) for Kashima Jingu. In
the beginning of January, there are many people visiting these temples and shrines,
who also come to the
brewery, so we are busy from New Year's Day. We have a kura tour, breaking and
opening of taru (sake barrel), offering sake from the taru, and amazake. Lots of fun events
for the whole family. Visit our brewery when you come to Japan!
5. What are your plans for the future?
Last year in March, at a sake tasting event at
the Kitano Hotel in Manhattan, there was a voting for favorite sake. Aiyu's
Junmai Shiboritate Honnama Genshu was voted the number one favorite. Finally,
this year, we will start selling it in NY! It is slightly nigori and muroka
honnama
genshu. We want people in NY to enjoy the Ichiban (first) shibori of the year!
Kosuke Kuji, Nanbu Bijin (6/2/10)
Kanpai NY Best of 2010: Best Sake Ambassador,
Best Junmai Sake
Kosuke Kuji is the vice president of Nanbu Bijin
sake brewery, located in Iwate, Japan. Nanbu Bijin is a family-owned brewery
that was founded in 1902, and their award-winning sake is widely distributed
around the world. Kuji-san is the public face of the brewery, and oversees
everything from brewing and product development to marketing and promoting the
brand internationally. He maintains a daily blog on the brewery's website, contributes articles to
newspapers, gives lectures, and even hosts a radio program.
Hi Kuji-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. Which of your sakes are available
here in the U.S.?
Nanbu Bijin Junmai Daiginjo, Nanbu
Bijin Daiginjo,
Nanbu Bijin Junmai Ginjo, Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai. In the future, Torui Mutenka
Umeshu and All Koji are scheduled to be sold in the U.S.
2. Can you describe a typical day
for you at the brewery?
I am going to tell you the sake making
schedule as below:
6 AM - Arrive at office. Take
koji that is out and dried since the previous day at karashiba and put it into the tank. Make mizu koji.
7 AM - Breakfast
8 AM - Stir and take
temperature. Pile up koji. Shubo is making mizu koji,
adding warm air, and taking the temperature.
9 AM - Start shikomi (mixing of
ingredients).
10 AM - Quick break
10:30 AM - Clean up the shikomi.
If shibori is scheduled, do shibori.
11 AM - Wash rice
12 PM - Lunch break
1 PM - Continue washing rice.
Koji is at naka shigoto (lower temperature of koji by mixing with air).
3 PM - Break
3:30 PM - Preparation for the
next day.
5 PM - End of the day. Koji is at
shimai shigoto (start drying process).
3. Have you noticed any trends among sake
drinkers in NY and Japan?
Many Japanese sake lovers first
collect data and think about how the sake was made before tasting it. They might say something like,
“because it is Daiginjo, it tastes
like…” On the other hand, in America, they seem to first taste the sake and
then evaluate it based on how it tasted.
4. What are you currently working on and what are
your plans for the future?
More and more people are discovering
the appeal of Nihonshu all over the world. Instead of thinking of overseas as a
market to sell Nihonshu because the Japan market is not doing well, by learning how
Nihonshu is evaluated overseas, we can learn new ways of enjoying Nihonshu in Japan. NY is the first city Nanbu Bijin started exporting to
overseas, therefore, it is a memorable city. It is a very competitive market. I
will continue working hard to enlighten people about Nihonshu so that more people will
start loving it.
5. What are your thoughts on the current state of
the sake industry and what do you see for the future of sake?
The Japanese sake industry has a long
history and, in a way, is a closed industry. It is difficult to challenge new
things. However, there are sake makers who want to revitalize the industry and
think about the future, and are rising to make things brighter.
I appreciate your support.
Chizuko Niikawa-Helton, Sake Discoveries (6/1/09)
Kanpai NY Best of 2010:
Best Sake Sommelier
Chizuko Niikawa-Helton was the sommelier
at Sakagura for many years, and now owns her own sake consulting business called
Sake Discoveries. She organizes and hosts sake tasting events and lectures, and
provides consulting services to many well-known sake breweries, including
Daishichi, Dassai, Dewatsuru, Nanbu Bijin, and Tengumai.
Hi Chizuko-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. What was the defining
moment that led you to become a sake enthusiast?
One day many years ago when I was a fashion
designer in Tokyo my client, who was a man in his mid 50s, took me to a very
cozy and cool Izakaya in Tokyo. The owner served us fresh icy sake
"Yuki-hie Sake" which means "frozen sake like snow" as an
aperitif. It was my first moment of "WOW!!" for sake. That is when my
door opened.
2. What are some of your
all-time favorite sakes and what are some of your recent discoveries?
That's a good question and a bad question. I have
too many favorites and discoveries. These are just SOME of them... One of my
favorite table sake is Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai. One of my favorite table
Kanzake (warm sake) is Daishichi Kimoto Honjozo. One of my favorite Yamahai sake
is Tengumai Umajun. (Actually this is one of my favorite Kanzake too.) One of my
favorite organic rice sake is Dewatsuru Matsukura Tokubetsu Junmai from my
hometown Akita prefecture. And one of my recent discoveries is that Dassai 50
Junmai Ginjo can be a good Kanzake! Our sake friend Mr. Gen Yamamoto of Soba
Totto made very interesting Dassai 50 cocktails the other day. It was slightly
warm Dassai 50 with fresh strawberries and whip cream!
3. What are some of your
favorite restaurants for drinking sake?
The best place to drink sake for me is still
Sakagura. Sakagura is my homebase as a Sake Sommelier, and it won't ever change.
My new favorite Japanese restaurant is Momokawa! They have many choices of small
great dishes for sake. Love it!
4. What are you currently
working on and what are your plans for the future?
Basically I am holding special sake tasting
events, lectures, making sake lists and staff training for restaurants. My plans
for the future? Let you know when I get ready to talk. It's going to be very fun
anyway!
5. What are your thoughts on
the current state of the sake industry and what do you see for the future of
sake?
The number of sake drinkers in the world has
increased over the last 10 years. Many restaurants in the U.S. used to serve
sake "HOT or COLD" without the name of the sake on the list. Times are
changing. Many non-Japanese people will be able to order sake at restaurants or
buy sake at liquor stores by name, type and their favorite temperature for their
food in the same way you might pick a bottle of wine. Sake will be a standard
alcohol for everybody!
Gen Yamamoto, Soba Totto (5/3/09)
Kanpai NY Best of 2010:
Best Bartender/Mixologist
Gen Yamamoto is the bartender extraordinaire
at Soba Totto (211 E 43 St., New York, NY, 212-557-8200). In addition to
creating an outstanding sake list at Soba Totto, he is known for his inventive
sake and shochu cocktails, made with fresh fruit and other natural ingredients.
He also teaches classes about cocktail making and offers catering services for
events.
Hi Gen-san, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. How would you compare your bartending
experience in NY with your experience in Japan?
My experience in NYC has been very interesting
for me, mainly because there are so many people! I really appreciate my
situation at Soba Totto, and I appreciate the people who I meet every day.
Meeting new people has led to many good experiences for me, and keeps me
motivated. NYC has lots of good energy that I like.
2. What was the defining moment that led you
to become a sake enthusiast?
When I came to the U.S. and started working at a
Japanese restaurant here. When I was in Japan, I didn't drink a lot of sake. I
was drinking malt whisky, brandy, and the other liquors more than sake.
3. What are your top 5 sakes right now?
Daishichi, Dassai, Amanoto, Nanbu Bijin, and Hakkaisan, which are widely available and are good for most occasions.
4. What are your top 5 cocktails right now?
Strawberry, Kiwi, Daikon, Carrot, and Tomato,
which are all in season now. Strawberry is mixed with one of my favorite sakes
Dassai 50 and homemade strawberry confiture. There are hints of fresh strawberry
on Dassai 50's aroma and taste. Kiwi is mixed with Torikai rice shochu and a
touch of fresh fennel for the accent. Daikon is mixed with rice shochu Hakutake
Shiro, respecting daikon's soft bitterness, spiciness, and sweetness and
shochu's sweetness and taste. Carrot is mixed with a sugar cane shochu called
Jougo. The key is the balance between the carrot and Jougo's sweetness and
strong character. Tomato is mixed with organic vodka and homemade tomato
confiture. This cocktail is not spicy like a bloody mary, but instead you taste
the fruit of the tomato. I always try to respect all of the ingredients that I
use.
5. What are you currently working on and what
are your plans for the future?
Modern bar culture came to Japan in the 40's and
50's and it's still evolving, along with Japanese popular culture. Before coming
to the U.S., I was studying Japanese bar philosophy and its effects on popular
culture, which ultimately led me to come to NY. I would like to keep trying to
do my best, and would like to be a part of the bridge between NYC and Japan. And
I hope I can make a contribution to modern bar culture here in NY.
Timothy Sullivan, UrbanSake.com (3/8/09)
Kanpai NY Best of 2010:
Best Sake Teacher
Timothy Sullivan writes the UrbanSake.com website, which is one of the leading resources for information about sake in the
U.S. He also teaches classes about sake at Astor Center in NY, and is a recipient of the prestigious Sake Samurai title from the Japan Sake Brewers Association.
Hi Timothy, thanks for agreeing to chat with us. Here are our 5 questions...
1. What was the defining moment that led you to
become a sake enthusiast?
My conversion to sake fanatic came
through a pairing experience. I was having sushi and ordered Premium sake on a
whim. The tastes of the sake astonished me. The pairing of the sake with the
sushi sealed the deal and made me a believer. However, I was filled with
questions... How did they get such nuanced, fruity flavors out of rice and
water?! I had to learn more! I started researching everything I could to learn
more. The rest is history as they say...
2. What are your top 5 sakes?
I can't pick just 5! So much of what I look for
in a sake depends on what I'm eating or what mood I'm in. There really is a
sake for every situation. We're so lucky in New York to have access to ever
more premium sakes. I will say I still love some of the very first sakes I had
when I was first learning about Premium Nihonshu including sakes from
Hakkaisan Brewery in Niigata, Dassai Brewery in Yamaguchi and Masumi Brewery
in Nagano. Another favorite is Kudoki Jozu from Kamenoi Shuzo in Yamagata. But
there are so many, many more I love to drink. You can visit my website at
UrbanSake.com to read my tasting notes on hundreds of sakes I've tried.
3. What are your top 5 restaurants for drinking
sake?
Again, it's difficult to pick just 5. In New
York, "Sakagura" is the 'mother ship' of sake culture. They have the
largest sake list in town and their special events are not to be missed.
Another favorite restaurant is "Yakitori Totto". Great grilled meats
and excellent sake. I've recently had top tier sushi and sake at both "15
East" and "Sushi Azabu". For more relaxed evenings, I love
"Sake Bar Hagi" for delicious Izakaya food.
4. What are you currently working on and what
are your plans for the future?
I'm currently working on expanding my
UrbanSake.com website. I want to continue to evolve it into an informative
portal for sake news, education and events. In the future, I would love to
expand my knowledge of sake making with first hand experience and also become
fluent in Japanese.
5. What are your thoughts on the current state
of the sake industry and what do you see for the future of sake?
Personally, I think the future of sake in the
U.S. is bright. As a sake teacher, my classes are filled, month after month,
by students who love sake and are anxious to learn more. The market is
emerging and I'm honored to be able to help people take their first steps into
the world of premium sake. I honestly believe sake has what it takes to become
a major player in the beverage arena. As I know from my own experience, it
only takes one sip to become a true believer!
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